India 2025

Blog

  • DAY 5

    DAY 5

    February 1, 2025

    Another travel day.

    We really hate saying goodbye to Varanasi and our beautiful hotel – however we know more great adventures lie ahead. Todd decides to join Shruti for a “street food” breakfast. He reported the it was delicious and it cost only $1.50.

    The hours ride to the airport is full of sights and sounds that are a World apart from what we know and experience. A man getting a shave and haircut outside by the road – cattle sleeping by the roadside – unbelievable congestion. Still, life goes on.

    We have two flights today – Varanasi to New Delhi then New Delhi to Udaipur. We leave our hotel at 10:00 and do not arrive at our new hotel until almost 9:00 that evening. So far the airlines in India have a perfect record – always late! The kids are hungry. They try KFC and Pizza Hut in the Delhi airport with moderate success. I am fortunate to get a few pictures of the people, but nowhere near the number I would like.

    We have a luxury van pick us up at the Udaipur airport for the hours drive (they are always an hours drive). Shruti spends the time talking about families in India, the arranged marriages, and the cast system which was outlawed many years ago but continues to function. In some ways it provides more family stability yet in other ways it restricts individual incentive and success. As our Grandson Duncan would say “it’s complicated.”

    Karen and I have visited Udaipur twice before staying at one of our very favorite hotels in an ancient castle 20 minutes out of the city. This time we are booked at the Lake Palace, the former Summer Palace of the Maharaja. Of course we had observed the hotel on an island out in the lake but had never visited. As our little Girl on the airplane said “OMG”.

    This is certainly one of the very most beautiful hotels we have ever seen. Again words cannot do it justice. I will keep taking pictures. We retire to the bar for one more hour of enjoying fabulous bar food – great DuncanTinis – and spirited conversations. The hotel has turned a long boring travel day into another unforgettable experience.

    Robert

  • DAY 4

    DAY 4

    January 31, 2025

    INDIA – A COUNTRY ON STEROIDS

    Karen and I were in Varanasi first, just two years ago. It was such a moving experience we had to bring Connie and Todd. This city on the Ganges is the most holy city for the Hindu religion (80% of Indias). They bring their dead here to be burned on the bank of the Ganges then spread the ashes in the River. Each Hindi must visit this holy site at least once in their lifetime. I encouraged you to look up Varanasi, the Hindi religion, and this years special, once every twelve years, the Maha Kumasi Mela (NYT January 15, 2025). Over 400 million Hindu pilgrims from around the Globe will bathe in and around the Ganges River and the nearby city of Prayagraj.

    Our program, just as we did two years ago, calls for an early morning (6:00 AM) and an evening visit to the River. Karen and I opted to skip the early morning portion. We met the kids  along with guide Shruti for breakfast at the hotel. By the way, we learned that the hotel has only 14 rooms sited on 30 groomed acres – an oasis in this chaotic city. After breakfast we visited a silk factory coming away with various purchases.

    At 4:00 we headed for the river. Fortunately, Karen stayed back. Once again the streets are unbelievably crowded – way too many lanes for the width of the road. Suddenly we see an entire lane coming towards us on our one lane street and again a few cows stop everything as they cross.

    Several things have changed on the bank of the river. Giant praying hands have been constructed along with a pop up children’s amusement rides. Everything is much more crowded than I remember. We have a double decker boat that would hold dozens to ourselves – with a great view of the river and the shore along with the hundreds of boats. In fact, yesterday, a large boat crashed into a small boat throwing 40 people into the river. Life vests are required – no one died.

    My pictures do a much better job describing the shore line than I can. Three things stand out – the huge crowds of people – an endless row of buildings of different styles – and a few fires. It takes 12 hours to burn a body and the demand is so high the fires burn 24 hours a day.

    We end up spending several hours cruising down the river and back. The boat traffic seems to grow as darkness takes over – most without lights. We can see and hear several celebrations conducted by young priest on shore. Once again, you really need to visit Varanasi to feel and see this remarkable place.

    At the end of the ride we each lit a small candle surrounded by a ring of marigolds and place it in the river with a wish. My wish is to return during this special time twelve years from now with our Great Grans. As we disembark our guide Shruti, remarked that India is a country on Steroids! I could not agree more!

    Robert

  • DAY 3

    DAY 3

    January 30, 2025

    Today is a travel day – from Mumbai to Varanasi. We are using a tour company – Banyan – throughout this entire venture. They always have a private car(s) with a driver and a guide. Our very favorite guide, from, past India adventures, Shruti is with us on the entire trip. Life is easy and good in India for the Duncan Family.

    It seems, so far, that every journey to and from the airport takes an hour. Today is no exception. Actually the traffic in Mumbai moved very well – Varanasi traffic did not. Once again we flew Air India. The airline used to be owned by the Indian Government and had a bad reputation. Tata, one of Indias huge conglomerates, purchased Air India a couple of years ago. They are rebuilding and modernizing the fleet. Both flights we have experienced were late but felt safe and good.

    The Mumbai airport is huge – really huge and quite beautiful. We had to pass through security twice.

    The traffic from the Varanasi airport into the city was terrible. The two lane road was jammed with at least three lanes of vehicles plus often another lane of motor scooters. It seemed like there was less than a foot of space between vehicles. They use the horns often – a real cacophony! Several cattle slowed the traffic. The roadsides are jammed with all kinds of small business, vendors selling fruits and vegetables – you name it!

    After the prerequisite hour we turn into an oasis of green where our hotel is located. The Nadesar Palace Varanasi is “a luxurious hotel nestled amidst verdant gardens and mango orchards, offering a serene retreat in the heart of India’s spiritual capital”. We unpack just in time to enjoy another wonderful dinner and an “almost prefect” DuncanTini.

    Just in case you have not not read enough about India – below are the other four blogs that I have posted in previous years:

    Art India 2023

    India 2019

    The Grans Tour 2017

    World Art Adventure 2015

    Robert

  • DAY 2

    January 29, 2025

    We have a full day of finding new art and a bit of shopping. It all starts with a beautiful breakfast at our hotel – The Taj Mahal. Each time we stay at this magnificent hotel we are reminded of India’s elegant past. From our window we can see the Gateway of India, a huge landmark that greeted ships arriving to Bombay – now rename Mumbai.

    Karen and I will tour with Birgid while Connie and Todd have their guides. By the way they are both loving their India experience.

    It is easy to reach the first gallery and our first shopping experience on foot. Immediately we are reminded of the chaos on the streets. Bicycles, motor scooters, taxi cabs, others on foot – we all share narrow very congested streets. Navigating requires patience. All the visits today are with galleries we have known from the past however most of the artists are new to us.

    Our first stop featured a young female artist working with geometric shapes and light. They also shared with us photographs of a deceased artist that focused on life in Rajasthan. Also, a painter who depicts birds on a man’s head. We will pursue both of these artists.

    A leather goods shop behind the Taj Mahal, Napps Dori is a favorite – all hand made in India with great design. I bought several things and will check their website for additional pieces. I love this shop. In fact I took the kids back later in the day.

    Next we visited a gallery we know well. We were not taken by the paintings on exhibit.

    Finally on to Gallery Maskara which we know very well. They are showing very large ink brush works by T. Venkanna, an artist we already have in our collection. The artist and friend Parag Sonarghare traveled from his home elsewhere in India just to see us. We have works by Parag and he has been an artist in residence in Puerto Vallarta. The last time we visited he photographed the backs of my hands and the top of my feet. We have the three hands paintings and today he showed us huge paintings of my feet. Karen says we have to purchase these.

    Shopping time! We again visited two clothing shops with garments on-the-edge – right up my quirky alley. In one case they took my measurements and will mail the garments to me. One cannot find this type of design at home.

    We finished the day with martinis and dinner at the Japanese restaurant in our hotel. Delicious!

    Robert

  • DAY 1

    DAY 1

    January 28, 2025

    First – let me give you the big picture re our journey to get to India.

    The four of us left Puerto Vallarta together Sunday, the 26th, midafternoon for a 3+ hour flight to San Francisco. Our 3+ hour layover turned into 5 1/2 hours because of a mechanical. We left SFO on Air India late evening on Sunday for the 8,393 mile and almost 18 hour journey to Mumbai. We landed several hours late around 5:30 AM in Mumbai. What happened to Monday??? Again we left SFO Sunday evening and arrived in BMO Tuesday morning! Monday, January 27 is gone forever!

    We started flying on a northwest heading towards Anchorage – gradually turning to a western heading as we went over the top of the World – then turning south towards Mumbai. A highlight of the journey was a 2 1/2 year old beautiful girl with long beautiful black hair, traveling with her Indian parents home to visit her Grandparents. While still on the ground the cabin lights suddenly went out. As clear as day she said “Holy Mollie – Oh My God!” In fact we heard the OMG comment several times during the journey. My screen kept me up to date on the status of the journey.

    Our key to managing time zone changes is simple. First enjoy a cocktail and an early dinner on board. Next take 2 Benadryl or Tynol PM to assure as long as sleep as possible. We all enjoyed at least 6 hours with Todd and Karen getting 3 more after breakfast. This is the first time Karen has slept on a long flight. Her secret was to wear her breathing machine that she has gotten so used to. Next we go on and stay on the new time even thought that first day can get very long. We do not nap. Then again at night you MUST take those sleeping aids again to assure a full nights sleep. So – here I am Wednesday morning bright and rested in a time zone 12 1/2 hours different than Nebraska. Why the half hour you ask – because they can.

    We meet Birgid for a late breakfast. What a joy to see her after two years! Then we split with the kids going sightseeing and the two of us with Birgid to visit 4 galleries. I especially liked the one where the artist takes discarded items (junk) and assembles large moving and noisy works.

    We stopped for a drink and snack at this really cool spot then joined the kids at our favorite antique store. 

    After a short break we had a light dinner on the outdoor patio of the Taj Mahal Hotel where we are staying. Birgid even tried the DuncanTini but I had to finish it for her. A great start to what promises to be another great India experience. Off to bed early.

    Robert