India 2025

Blog

  • EPILOGUE

    EPILOGUE

    India #6 – The good, the bad, and the ugly.

    We are home! Another memorable adventure! Connie and Todd learned to love India!

    The Good

    The people of India – kind, respectful, happy, often beautiful, many with small children. 

    Our guides and drivers with special mention of Shruti and Jaya. They were always there to help and support us all the time! And ot Banyan and all those behind the scenes making our journey so special.

    The Doctors, the clinic and hospital staff that got Karen up and going in just a day and a half.

    The hotel’s – mostly in historic palaces – were over-the-top fabulous. The stunning shear beauty was only surpassed by the always friendly attentive staff. We remarked many times that we wished we had the time to just “chill out” and simply enjoy each hotel for a few days.

    The food – often different – always good  – many times great. And of course here’s to the Indian version of the DuncanTini.

    The artists, galleries and the art that we were exposed to has always been special. Our India art collection, already among the best in the US, will get even better.  

    The little bit of shopping we had time for was really fun – unusual designs. We are bringing home a few treasures.

    All the photo opportunities first and foremost of the people – their dress and their beautiful smiles. I noticed on one day alone I took 135 photographs. And then there are the animals on the roads and the chaotic traffic scenes, I am thinking of doing a special portfolio of my best of India over the years.

    The Bad

    Not enough time. We tried to do and see too much in our 14 days in India. Internal airline travel usually took all day – we lost 6 or 7 days to internal travel. Air India for our long flights and a couple of internal flights were not good.

    The Ugly

    Nada – None – Nothing

    Special Thanks

    To Karen for hanging in there when the going got tough and for bouncing back from her injury.

    To Connie and Todd for loving India as much as we do. They inherited our sense of adventure and curiosity.

    To our dear friend Birgid for introducing us to contemporary India and Indian art and for encouraging and arranging the frequent returns. 

    To Tessa for editing and publishing the blogs. I take the photos and write the text – she puts it all together in a comprehensive way.

    And to all of you who traveled along with us on India #6. Stay tuned. South America w the LeBaron’s is on the docket for April 2025.

    Robert

  • DAY 14

    DAY 14

    February 10, 2025

    Let the sun shine again!

    We get up early to head back to the hospital. It is a real shame that we have little time to enjoy this hotel built in the largest and most beautiful palace. Karen & I enjoyed dinner here on a previous trip – this was my first stay.

    I was escorted to a most beautiful outdoor patio for coffee. Sitting just a few feet away was my best friend from college Stuart Goode and his partner Nancy Cooley. It so great to happen upon them unexpectedly. We knew each other were traveling in India at the same time however our schedules did not intersect. Our plans had changed and here they are. We had a wonderful visit. They are in love with India as much as we are.

    Todd and I arrived at the hospital around 9:00. Karen is still in the ICU bed, sitting up eating, with a big smile on her face. She is back! and ready to move on. Unfortunately the process to get her released is not easy. Finally, by 1:00 we are on our way to catch our flight to Delhi. Karen has remarked several times what great care she had and how friendly everyone was. By the way the total bill for the emergency room, an MRI annd over night in the ICU including anll the doctors was $550.00. Another India memory – but one we will NOT repeat.

    Our stay at a Delhi airport hotel is uneventful. We enjoy a good dinner and retire early for a few hours sleep. We will get up again at 10:30 PM on Monday to catch our 2:45 AM flight to Chicago.

    Robert

  • DAY 13

    DAY 13

    February 9, 2025

    BUMMER!

    About 1:30 AM Karen took a bad fall in our bathroom! Lot’s of blood. Fortunately she remained conscious and called for my help. I ran next door for Todd to come help. Together we were able to help clean up Karen and the room and get her back to bed. Her nose continued to bleed but seemed to be slowing.

    Bleeding had not stopped when morning arrived. She has been on a blood thinner drug for years. We talked with both Jonathan, our Doctor son-in-law and Todd’s friend, Dr. J. B. Kettner. Both were concerned. We called Jaya and put in motion a healthcare initiative.

    The first step was to get our hotel to call a local Physician. This young man was terrific – ending up spending the entire day with us. Karen remarked that he was “a young version of Omar Sharif”.  He recommend we take Karen to the local hospital. We ended up in a small clinic in Jaisalmer.

    The conditions at the Clinic were almost primitive. For example they put Karen on an IV lying in the waiting room by hanging the drip from a curtain rod held by tied gauze. The Doctor saw Karen for maybe a minute. The lobby was packed with a continuous stream of locals, many with small children, seeking help. The bathroom had no stool – only a slit in the floor. No toilet paper. We waited for a CT scan. This is Sunday and the City has taken down the electricity to power the CT scanner. We wait for hours. Finally she gets her CT scan.

    All this said the people were really good and very attentive. Her nose continued to bleed and needed to have the tissue being held to her nose changed frequently. The CT scan results will not be available for several hours. The Clinic Doctor recommends we move Karen to a proper hospital in Jodhpur.

    An ambulance is called. Our young Doctor Sharif and myself hop in the back with Karen and we are off for the 4 1/2 hour drive. The road is rough and the old ambulance has a poor suspension. It was far from a comfortable journey. Half way, we stop to help Karen to a gas station bathroom. She throws up twice – blood that has drained internally in addition to the external bleeding.

    It turns out this was a turning point in her condition. For the first time in over 12 hours her bleeding stops. She has started to turn the corner. She even sleeps some. Our young Doctor Sharif remarks that she looks better.

    Connie and Todd, in the Banyon van, arrive about an hour after we do.

    The hospital in Jodhpur is a real upgrade from the clinic but still far short of what we are used to in the US. The CT scan results show she has a fractured nose. They order an MRI and take her to their ICU for monitoring. The individual rooms do not have the monitoring equipment we expect at home. Both Todd and I visit with her. Reluctantly, and at her urging, the three of us head to the hotel around 10:00 PM.

    This has been a tough and stressful, long day. Throughout, the people caring for Karen and supporting the three of us have been terrific! Both Connie and especially Todd have been there for us at every turn. I debated about even writing this blog but decided to do so, with Karen’s concurrence because I want everyone to know it is safe to travel India.

    I have told our Children and our Grandchildren that people all over the World are the same. They care about one another. They want their Children to have an even better life. This day has once again proven my advice to be sound.

    Robert

  • DAY 12

    DAY 12

    February 8, 2025

    Off for a new adventure this morning!

    We fly from Delhi to Jaisalmer – a City to the Southwest of Delhi near the Pakistan border in the only desert in India. We have never visited this City or this part of India. Our flight is on time, only the second of the many flights in India. Our driver and the van we are used to, are waiting at Jaisalmer airport (he drove the almost 12-hour drive from Delhi.)

    We have a new guide Jaya who we all like immediately. We drive through the city and it’s very famous Fort. It is known as the “Golden City” because of the yellow sandstone architecture. Founded in 1156 – 869 years ago there is much to see and enjoy. Tomorrow we will return for a tour.

    Starting at the airport with numerous fighter hangers (bunkers) and F-118’s parked on the tarmac to numerous large military facilities along the highway it is obvious that this is a military city. We are told they are here to protect India from Pakistan and their many invasions of India

    The drive to our resort is an hour. The more rural we get the more cows, camels and goats we see. They all have priority on the roads.

    Sujǎn – The Sarai is incredible. Tents built in the desert will provide a relaxing unwind from our very hectic India schedule. You must see it to believe it. Click here and go to “Gallery – All” for great photos. We enjoy a late light lunch then off to see our luxury tent. By the time dinner rolls around at 7:00 we are so looking forward to an unusual but wonderful evening. Karen elects to stay back.

    Their DuncanTini’s made with Absolute India Vodka (mango and pepper flavors) were the very best I have ever had. I sincerely hope it will be available at home.

    Next we were escorted to our special dining experience. The photographs tell only part of how magnificent our evening will be. The central attraction is a large movie screen running a movie set in India mid 20th Century. There are candles everywhere. Dinner will be served on individual tables also adorned with candles. Large fires at our back along with wool blankets will keep us warm. There are only three parties totaling 9 guests. The food was incredible – Todd can not stop talking about his.

    On our way back to our tent we see another large outdoor area with many more guests. This place is incredible!

    Robert

  • DAY 11

    DAY 11

    February 7, 2025

    Our final day in Delhi!

    Today we have artists’ and gallery visits scheduled. This should be another fun day w Birgid. Once again this is a huge city. We average 3/4 of an hour drive between stops with the longest being almost 1 1/2 hours. Traffic generally moves it’s the distances that drive up the time.

    Our first stop is at the studio/home of Martand Khosla an artist already in our collection. We had never met him before. What a delight. Smart and articulate we liked him very much almost immediately. We learned his wife is from New Jersey and they have 2 young children. They love to travel – their last adventure was to Peru. He was trained as an architect. I took a really good photo of Martand. We bonded.

    The Martand Khosla piece in our collection.

    His studio was full of both two-dimensional and three-dimensional work – much of it reflecting his architecture background. I fell in love with a steel cylinder – cut on the rolling edges with images. When filled with brick dust and rolled across the floor images appear. He has cylinders in three different shapes. I asked Birgid to pursue two of them.

    We also discussed Casa Cerrito, the artist residency that we share with LeBaron’s in Puerto Vallarta. He is interested. I also promised to send both the “Chica” and the “Baragan” books. I feel like we made a new friend.

    Next we stopped at Gallery Espace – a regular stop in Delhi for us. They featured watercolors that were new to us by an older Indian artist Amit Ambalal. Unfortunately the ones we liked were sold. I moved on up to the Gallery’s new 2nd floor space. There were some great pieces – a few by artists we already collect.

    The piece Karen liked – already sold.

    On to a really fine small shopping area that we have visited in the past and a bit of lunch + shopping at the Delhi location of our favorite leather shop Nappa Dori. This is a much larger and cooler space than Mumbai with a smart cafe in a really great looking space. I loved the waiter’s aprons which they normally sell but were out of stock. I had my first Affogato – a shot of espresso poured over ice cream (a toast to Mae). Delicious!

    Across is another location of Gallery Nature Morte, where we purchased our Gupta Tree. A young female artist came in especially to show us her work installed there. To say that she was full of life and beautiful is way understating the experience. As Todd often quotes a movie line “I think we got us a real live wire here” The pictures I took of her and her glass mosaics plus huge fabic pieces tell just a small part of the experience. India born, MFA from Parsons in NYC, she presently resides in New York. Most of the show is sold but we ask Birgid to inquire anyway.

    Our final stop is a gallery we know in a new location. They have a show of Arun KS, an artist we already own and have met on a previous trip. The working this show is very good but we both agree ours is better.

    This is the Arun KS piece we own

    Back to the hotel for a cocktail in our favorite bar, Pactala Peg, where they treat us as long lost friends. And for dinner we return to “The Spice Market”. Really really great Asian cuisine. 

    What a marvelous memorable day! We love you Delhi! We love you India!

    R

  • DAY 10

    DAY 10

    February 6, 2025

    This art fair is certainly dictated the scheduling of this India trip. We have attended a couple of other times and always find it an excellent opportunity to find new artists and see new work by artist we already know. We were not disappointed.

    Of course Birgid knows many of the artists and galleries so we focus on those first. We spot a bronze eagle’s wing laying on a galleries floor. It is stunning. This is the first of an addition of three created with the lost wax method in the artist’s studio. “Garuda, the silent flight, by Delhi based artist Deepak Kumar is a ten foot bronze wing of an eagle. The pink vase was designed by Rooshad Shroof. It wall look fabulous with Karen’s flowers. We added both to our collection.

    Traffic coming home was every bit as bad as we have seen anywhere. At one point we counted ten lanes of traffic merging together, honking and jostling for position. We have not seen any accidents. I assume this is normal operations for all. One strange thing I have noticed, if traffic is light they tend to drive on one of lane lines rather than in the lane – probably allows one to move to either lane quickly.

    Today in Granddaughter Summers 28th birthday. Happy Birthday my Dear! We will give her a call late this evening which is morning in the US on February 6.

    Robert

  • DAY 9

    DAY 9

    February 5, 2025

    HAPPY BIRTHDAY KAREN – Number 82!

    By the way – June 20 will be our 60th Anniversary – and we fooled around 10 years before that!

    We celebrate all day long. She is gifted bouquets of flowers wherever we go. We started in the morning with a beautiful breakfast on the hotel lawn. Actually this was the former entrance to the Palace. Birgid has arranged a “Cake Cutting” ceremony including “Happy Birthday” spelled out in flowers.

    Off to the airport by 10 for our 1 hour flight to Delhi. I am curious – how many motor scooters/motorcycles in India? The trusty internet (by the way we 5g everywhere) says 260 million. It always looks like all the 260 million are on the street with us each time we go out. Another interesting fact – India is 1/3 the land mass of the United States. We have 300 million people – they have almost 1.5 billion.

    We climb two flights of stairs (the elevator is inoperative) to our gate – wait almost an hour – then back down those same stairs for a gate change. We are on Air India Express today. I took a photo of the checkin area of IndiGo across from us – check out the clever titles.

    I also took a photo of the baggage collection area in the Delhi airport. We are belt number 4. Looking the other way I cannot even see the end. This is a HUGE terminal!

    As always, Shruti briefs us about the history and monuments of Delhi. One thing that stuck with me was the huge monument of Gandhi leading his followers to the coast to gather salt, which the Government had banned. I will include a writing about Gandhi that Karen had previously written. 

    Delhi is so different from Mumbai. Although there are 24 million residents Delhi is spread out – horizontal rather than vertical Mumbai. There are so many trees – truly a green city. It is the political center of India vrs the business center. Many streets are tree lined vrs lined with an endless stream of small shops.

    Although our flight was only one hour it was almost 4:00 when we arrived at our hotel. Total elapsed time 6 hours. We should have taken the 4 hour drive in our van. I am ready for something to eat and a Long Island Iced Tea. NOPE – the last two days have been local elections – no alcohol until 7:00.  

    The Imperial Hotel is our home away from home in India. This may be our fourth stay. I always remember the tall Sikhs wearing their red turbans. This is another elegant hotel – modern elegance rather than the old world elegance we have previously enjoyed. If I had to choose the old world would be my choice. We very much enjoy “high tea” in a new private lounge.

    Dinner and cocktails in the “Spice Market” Asian restaurant is over-the-top great! We are so very very fortunate!

    R

  • DAY 8

    DAY 8

    January 4, 2025

    Another full day is ahead. Breakfast at our beautiful hotel is both quiet and beautiful. I discovery a new omelet – goat cheese and spinach – really delicious! We are off to the walled city and its palace.

    Our first stop is Jantar Mantar (the Observatory). Without a doubt one of my very favorite stops in India. Here is the description from UNESCO which has designated the site as a World Heritage location.

    The size and the beauty of these observatory instruments is beyond words. I took many photographs and also found a book. By the way we physically checked the time on the giant sundial – it was perfect.

    Birgid took Karen and me through a contemporary art exhibition on the grounds of the City Palace – The Jaipur Art Centre. Curated by an acquaintance, Peter Nagy, we again discovered new artists showing some wonderful works. A favorite was an antique chair with a marble globe growing out of the seat. Fun!

    After a quick stop at a foundation for women where i purchased an unusual patchwork  quilted jacket (are any of you surprised at that?) Time for a drink/snack/lunch break. They made a terrific Long Island Ice Tea and Todd ordered a pizza which was great! One has to love this Country.

    Karen wants to hit the street vendors looking for bangles and tassels for a secret project when home. This relaxed experience gives me opportunity to take photographs of life on the streets. The traffic – the noise – the color – all over the top! We even see a camel hauling construction supplies. This is the real India.

    Two last stops are at fancier shops and sure enough I found two more unique shirts. We are having fun now. Todd orders another pizza – also excellent. No dinner for us tonight. A very fun and relaxing day! Until tomorrow.

    Robert

  • DAY 7

    DAY 7

    February 3, 2025

    We began our 6:00 AM departure with news that Todd as sick and vomiting all night. He certainly is not the bright and happy man we know. Everyone is quick to blame the street food he enjoyed yesterday however, Shurti had the same food. Perhaps it is just so different from what we are used to. In fact, we know some Mexicans that got sick on the food in the United States – not bad food – just different.

    On the hours drive to the airport we see something new for this journey – an elephant on the roadside. We love this country!

    All our internal India flights have been on their largest carrier IndiGo. It is a fun experience – great graphics – marketing that makes you smile. Today we have an ATR turboprop to Jaipur. Our travel company – Banyon, is worried about the lack of business class seats so they have purchased an empty seat next to each of us. Talk about spoiling us.

    Todd elected to go directly to the hotel with the luggage van to rest.

    Jaipur – the “pink city” is one of our favorites. Actually so far each city has been our “favorite”. The walled city was built for a population of 50,000 in 1727 – now there are 1,000,000. The metropolitan area is 4,000,000. Lots and lots of people everywhere.

    Our first stop is the Jewlery Business/Museum that we visited two years ago. The deceased Father/founder built a substantial art/antique collection. Much of the second floor of the business is a Museum. They employ 250 designing, cutting, polishing fine jewelry. The building is very contemporary designed by a French architect.The two sons that currently rum the business were extremely attentive to our ladies. Both Karen and Connie found some beautiful pieces.

    Once again our hotel is over-the—top located on large beautiful grounds I will say it again – the hotels in India are consistently among the finest in the World. We enjoyed a relaxed lunch on their spacious lawn. Life is good for the Duncans (well except for Todd at the moment).

    In the afternoon we journeyed outside the City to an old fort high on a hill and the site of a temporary art show. The fort is a terrific venue for both sculpture and two dimensional work. There were many small rooms surrounding a courtyard and the starkness of it all really makes the art shine. We asked Birgid to follow-up on a couple of pieces.

    Back to the hotel and drinks at the Polo Bar an exquisite large room. Hotel’s today cannot replicate the splendor of these historic palaces. And the DuncanTini’s were great! A wonderful dinner then off to bed – tomorrow will be a busy day.

    Robert

  • DAY 6

    DAY 6

    February 2, 2025

    A DAY OF REST

    After they had “the best breakfast yet” the Kids departed with Shurti for a day of adventure in Udaipur – the City Palace – the Crystal Palace – a Hindi temple – a Muslim food market – dining on street food. Lots of walking

    Karen and I relaxed in certainly one of the beautiful hotels we have experienced. The service at all the hotels has been the best ever. Everything is spotless. And, of course the food is excellent. The kids plan to come back some day and just “hole up” at this and most of our other hotels. So far, all the hotels were palaces of Maharajas in the past.

    The Kids return midafternoon in time for our private boat ride around the lake. The City Palace dominates the landscape on one side. We see two other luxury hotels, a restaurant we had lunch at previously. Then there were a variety of birds from giant pelicans to tiny ducks. A very pleasant and serene experience.

    Our hotel featured an evening Indian entertainment – music on strange instruments and beautiful (both the women and the elaborate costumes) young’s female dancers. There are three restaurants in the hotel – we chose the simplest. External music is extremely loud. There is a party on the second level roof top. Todd had checked it out earlier – they were celebrating the birthday of a one year old. There must have been fifty or more attendees. Any excuse for a party right. Indians love to party. Weddings in India are a huge deal, lasting four days and often ultra expensive. Over the years we have witnessed several on the fringes.

    Another super fine day!

    Robert